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5-1-02
Pulled the
pokeweed pulp this afternoon and it
made a nice crisp paper, which surprised me given that the pulp looked “fuzzy.”
I thought it would drain too quickly and require the addition of abaca to pull,
but it didn’t. The
paper
has flecks of dark gray, brown and orange on a background of a tannish cream.
Now I’m really curious about what the green pokeweed stalk will make.
5-2-02
We’ve had nothing but storms here for the last four or five days, one right
after the other, and yesterday there were tornados that dumped softball size
hail south of us. Makes gathering plant materials a bit difficult, if not
impossible. I’m not too fond of being caught out in situations like that.
Pulling paper is difficult, too, because at this time of year, I work on the
back deck. I did manage to bleach some of the pokeweed pulp and pull a few
sheets of that before yet another storm drove me back inside. Bleaching the
pokeweed doesn’t lighten it as much as it does most other pulps. However, it
does
change the background from tan to cream
without affecting the gray, brown and orange fibers.
5-3-02
While I was gathering Japanese knotweed to send to Betty Pulver, I found Indian
hemp (or hemp dogbane). There were 40 or so stalks, about 2’ tall now, and they
popped off the lateral roots easily. I really should have waited until they
were taller before harvesting, but there was a tractor and bushhog clipping the
field. The fibers from adult Indian hemp plants were once used in making fish
nets, string and rope, and remains of these plants have been identified in
Hopewell and Adena fabrics dating back to 100-300 B.C. The bast stripped
easily, so I processed that separately from the stem, but as it turned out, that
was a useless step, though if the plants had been larger, it might be feasible.
The bast makes a pulp much like milkweed — long fibers that tangle into tight
masses and require a formation aid in the vat to keep them from clumping.
Initially, the bast pulp is a rich, gooey green with dark flecks, but it beaches
to a bright white. The goo and the flecks can be floated out in the same manner
as those in milkweed bast. The stems have a core that cooks up into mush. They
must be crushed and washed thoroughly in an open weave strainer to remove this.
I didn’t have enough bast pulp to justify making a formation aid and pulling
sheets from it alone, and I regret that, because I suspect it would have been
lovely paper. Instead, I mixed the bast pulp with that from the stem. The stem
pulp acted as a separator, and I was able to pull sheets from the mixture,
thought with a bit difficulty. The
Indian
hemp paper is
rich with fibers from the stem, yet well bonded because of the fine fibered
bast. I would really like to try this plant again when it is larger.
5-4-02
Earlier in the week, I had promised to teach Heather how to strip the bast from
mulberry and we had scheduled tree cutting for 11:30 today, but the day started
drizzly and cold, maybe 50 degrees. I just figured that the project was
cancelled. Wrong. 12:15 Heather called to say she and Teresa were free and
ready to go. You’re kidding, I though, but I cut them some slack. They’re a
good 25 years younger than I, and haven’t developed good common sense yet.
However, I don’t know what my excuse is, because I agreed to go. We downed two
trees, cut them to reasonable length, loaded the pieces in the van and brought
them back to the house. Spent the rest of the afternoon, which had dried off,
but not warmed up that much, on the back deck stripping the bast, talking and
drinking gallons of coffee. We each ended up a nice pile of bast to work up
later. When stripped without steaming, the lower trunk of the mulberry yields a
rougher bast than the limbs. This I kept separate. I’ve found from working
with the trunk bast in this manner that it will make a slightly textured paper
compared to the silky smooth paper from the limb bast.
5-5-02
After the fog cleared this morning, the sun came out, and I put the
large strips of mulberry bark
out on the deck to dry. Cut up the smaller strips from the limbs into 1”
lengths to be cooked, probably tomorrow. **Yesterday I found some last year’s
Indian hemp stems and gathered about a pound of those. There aren’t enough just
to do the bast, so I chose to do the entire stem, bast and all. Cut that up
this morning and set it on to cook for four hours. About five minutes after
putting it in the beater, I knew there were going to be problems. Because the
stems, though soft, were chunky, I raised the drum, but the fine bast fibers
(very similar to those from milkweed) separated from the stems and tangled with
the stem fibers, creating clumps that blocked the intake. Fooled around with
adding more water, raising and lowering the drum for about 30 minutes, but it
was getting late and I turned the beater off. It’s a problem to be faced
tomorrow.
Back to the top
5-6-02 I
have now learned that I should have practiced the fine art of hand beating
before
Hollander beating. When I started the beater up this morning, it was the same
problem as yesterday — chunks embedded in clumps of fine fibers, all of which
jammed when going under the drum. Empted the beater, hand beat the mass of
fibers to break down the stem chunks, then put it back in the Hollander and
lowered the drum. No trouble after that. With all the problems, I’m not sure
of beating time on this plant. I took some pulp out of the vat and pulled
sheets, but at that point the sheet was
more compressed fiber than paper, so
I let the pulp beat an hour longer. The visible heavy fibers are from the stem,
but the stem fibers are bound by the very fine white milkweed like fibers from
the bast. Black specks are the “bark.” Though the picture doesn’t reflect it
well, the pulp that had been beaten an hour longer made
much better paper.
Bleaching lightened the paper,
but it did not affect the black bark specks. I find them interesting. Because
the fine bast fibers tend to clump in the vat, especially the more they are
stirred, the pulp requires a formation aid. If the stem is used with the bast,
old Indian hemp plants are extremely difficult to deal with and would not be
something to tackle without a beater.
5-9-02
Cooked the mulberry limb bast this morning. Thunderstorms kept me from hand
beating. No place to do it. Instead, I tried the blender on low/stir. Far
from traditional, but it worked better than I had hoped. I picked bark from
both the cooked bast and the pulp until I could find no more, but still ended up
with many
black specks in the paper.
They don’t bother me, kind of lend the paper some character, but I’d still like
to know how to pull clean paper from mulberry. **We have had thunderstorms for
it seems a week, but we finally got some sun this afternoon. Good thing because
I had pulp that desperately needed drying. It was that or freeze it before it
went bad. Spun two loads — one pokeweed, the other Indian hemp — in the washer,
then made tufts and spread those on bed sheets in the sun to dry.
5-10-02 I
need help identifying a plant that I used to make paper today (
full
view /
closeup).
The plant may be an escape, though I believe it is a wildflower in the phlox
family. Two years ago I gathered the seeds from plants I found growing behind
the Guild office in Old Town Berea. They were planted both in sun and shade,
and it prefers shade. Last year the plants formed 1.5-2’ rosettes of lance like
leaves with finely serrated edges, but did not form stems or blooms until this
year. Each base has multiple stems which grow to 3’ tall. The four-petal
flowers are white, very pale pink and pale lavender. (All examples of phlox
that I have found had five-petals.) Leaves are clasping on a slick, only
slightly hairy green stem. It blooms in late April and early May here in
Kentucky. [My thanks to
Lee Scoville and Linda Wallpe from the papermaking list for identifying this
plant as Dame’s Rocket.] Because of
this year’s wet spring, the plants did exceptionally well, too well, in fact.
When the winds came, the tall blooming spires blew over onto the bloodroot and
were causing that to rot. Even though the plant was blooming, I had to cut most
of it to save the plants underneath. Waste not, want not...papermaking
material. I stripped the leaves, cut the stems to 1” lengths and cooked for 3.5
hours in washing soda. There wasn’t enough plant material to justify the
beater, so I used the blender (2 minutes). The
plant
stems make an excellent paper, pale
olive with a thin, fine fibered background and slightly heavier fibers floating
on its surface. Would make an excellent
backlit paper.
Back to the top
5-11-02
Bleached the remaining pulp from the Dame’s rocket and it
turned from light olive to gold.
Strange, but even the tissue paper thin sheets don’t look that way unless
backlit. Nice paper. **Common violets make a blanket in the shady area in our
yard just under the edge of the pines. The year’s almost constant rains have
given them every chance to grow tall and wild. This afternoon I harvested a
half a cooker full of just the stems. Last September I cooked a small pot of
the stems and leaves and the pulp made a gorgeous paper. I would have done more,
but the time/labor factor was so great because the stems were short. Not so
this year. The stems on these violets were 12-14” long, and the area was so
clean of other plants that they could be gathered by the handfuls. Put them on
and cooked for an hour, then washed them through several waters. I’ll process
them tomorrow. Thought they make lovely paper by themselves, I’ll likely try
them with some of the mulberry bast, as well.
5-12-02 I
had hoped to reproduce
paper I made last September from the violet
stems, but it wasn’t possible. The
stems were too tender and processed into fibers that were too fine. Just
underlines the fact that the time when a plant is harvested can make all the
difference in the world in the paper. Immature plants often produce nothing but
mush, while that same plant harvested at maturity or when dry may be nearly
impossible to break down into fibers fine enough to hydrate. There is an
optimum time to harvest, depending on what is expected out of the plant. The
pure violet stem pulp was so fine, it went through and bonded to the screen
itself and would not release. When I mixed it with red mulberry bast pulp, the
sheet released readily. The
mixture of mulberry and violet stems
makes a thin paper with pleasing points of interest. Nice paper. **Cut the
obedient plants back so they would branch out and grow lower to the ground.
Couldn’t resist trying a few stems, but after the morning’s experience with the
tender violet stems, I only processed a few. Same result — the stems were so
tender, they processed into mush. Mixed some mulberry with the mush and pulled
a couple of sheets. Made a
green sheet with a few plant fibers visible.
Will try this one again in the fall.
5-14-02 I
really hadn’t intended to work with plants today, but for some time I’ve wanted
to try Kentucky bluegrass, and this morning I noticed that it was growing thick
on a bank beside the house. It was just beginning to send up seed stalks, and I
wanted to try the plant before the stalks became tough. Cut and cooked a half a
pot, and I’m delighted with the results. Because I expected the fibers to be
fine, I underprocessed the pulp just a little so there would be some character
to the paper. The
unbleached
paper is nice — a solid green with
flecks of deeper green and brown — but the
bleached bluegrass paper is
outstanding and pulls
delightfully thin!
It reminds me somewhat of Japanese painting. Initially, I was disappointed,
because I had hoped for a white paper with flecks of color, but the pulp
bleached out to gold. This proved to be a better background for the colored
fibers than white would have been. **This afternoon I went for a walk down by
the creek and found curly dock. Also found that the Indian hemp had shot up and
was 4’ tall. Harvested enough dock for a trial pot and enough hemp to make a
full pot of the bast. Cut and cooked the stalks from the dock and put them in
the beater while I stripped the hemp bast. I let the Hollander beat for an hour,
then decided to shut it down and finish tomorrow. The day has been long enough.
Back to the top
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5-15-02
Long day. Put the Indian hemp bast on to cook and cranked up the Hollander
again with the curly dock. Let that beat for nearly two hours, then took some
pulp out and pulled a test sheet to see how far along it was. At that point,
the fibers were somewhat heavy and would have required a formation aid, so I
thought I would let it beat a while longer. Over the next hour or so, the
fibers floating on the surface and those I could pull up with my hands didn’t
seem to have diminished that much, and I let it keep beating...and beating…
Lesson — I really should have pulled another sheet along the way rather than
depending on judgment. When I empted the pulp into a paint strainer after 4.5
hours of beating, the fibers were so fine, water didn’t want to drain out. Took
about twice as long to empty the load. However, I will say that overbeaten
curly dock makes an excellent, fine fibered
deep reddish
brown paper, which can be pulled as
thin as you want. Bleached, it yields a rather
featureless cream colored paper. If
a dab of unbleached pulp is added back to this, though, the paper becomes quite
interesting, with the
dark fine fibers coursing through the sheet.
I would highly recommend it as a paper source, though it requires a Hollander to
process. **The Indian hemp bast pulp is a pill! It forms
a mass of
fibers that are difficult even to
pull apart, and I’m not sure quite what to do with it yet. I did float off
quite a bit of the “bark,” but in the process, a small amount of bast went with
it. I thought, what the hey, and pulled a couple of sheets of that.
Weird paper...interesting,
but weird. **Made the mistake of going out to Indian Fort Theater to check on
the setup for the Guild Fair this weekend. Ended up coming home with three 2”
mulberry sprouts and accompanying limbs, and those had to be stripped. I
stripped and debarked the main stalks and limbs, but the smallest limbs I only
stripped the bast without debarking it, other than to run my hands down each
strip to knock off any loose bark. I’m going to process that with the bark on
and pull sheets just to see if I can make a paper similar to one Ray Bliss Rich
sent me.
5-16-02
Cooked and processed the bark covered bast from the small mulberry stems. Makes
an
interesting paper
and the quality is excellent. It has just a bit more bark than Ray’s paper, but
the ratio could be adjusted easily by adding more clean pulp to the vat. **I’m
not participating in the Guild Fair this weekend, but I had to take a couple of
things the Guild wanted to borrow out to the fair site. While I was there, I
couldn’t resist harvesting narrow leaf plantain stems from the amphitheater
steps. Last July I did plantain, but the stems were far too tough then. May
stems should be more tender. Brought them home, cut in 1” lengths, cooked and
processed in the beater for 2 hours. The bottom 1/2” of the stems is quite
tough and took longer to beat. Would be a good idea to cut off and discard that
part of the stem. Too late to pull sheets tonight. Tomorrow, maybe.
5-19-02
Tomorrow was a long way away. Guild Fair and cold weather stood in the way of
papermaking. Pulled the plantain stem pulp today. The vat really needed a
formation aid, but I didn’t bother, and the long fibers made pulling difficult.
Don’t know whether cooking longer or beating longer would have helped. It makes
good paper,
but the color isn’t outstanding. Because of that and the difficulty pulling, I
doubt I’ll do this one again. **While I was at the Fair today, I gathered
Gray’s sedge, Philadelphia fleabane and a few stalks of curly dock to try later
when dry. Cooked the sedge to pull tomorrow. **Whenever I strip mulberry
without steaming, there is always a thin layer of bast that adheres to the outer
bark. Leaving this isn’t much of a worry because it isn’t as good quality as
the inner bast and leaving it makes pulling easier. Still...it is bast. I’ve
been wondering whether cooking the bast and bark together and processing that
would yield a paper. The bark is considerably heavier than that from the small
limbs that I’ve done before, and I expect it will yield a coarser paper than
that made on the 16th, but worth a try. Cooked up some of the bast/bark I had
left to try tomorrow.
Back to the top
5-20-02
Processed the Gray’s sedge I cooked yesterday. It makes a very fine, slick pulp
and pulls a lovely,
smooth
green sheet with enough fiber to
make it interesting. The
yellow/cream colored bleached sedge
isn’t quite as interesting, though it is excellent paper. **The mulberry
bast/bark from the larger limbs was a hoot! Yes, it does make solid paper, but
it is mostly inclusions. The sheets are
heavy from the bark and a bit limp
because there is so much of it, but the paper does have its use as a decorative
sheet. **Cut and cooked the entire fleabane stem. Pulped it in the blender.
It is thick, but not slick. I suspect beating it in the Hollander would have
produced a far superior pulp and paper, but I didn’t have enough plant material
to justify that. It makes a
yellowish cream paper
of good quality, but not outstanding appearance. The bleached fleabane is a
soft cream
and quite pretty.
5-21-02
Bleached the remaining plantain pulp. While pulling paper from unbleached
plantain was difficult, pulling it from the bleached pulp was next to
impossible. Ended up adding abaca to separate the plantain fibers in the vat
and
pulled a few sheets.
Doesn’t show in the picture, but the long plantain fibers shine in the light and
makes a pretty bleached paper. However, the plant really isn’t worth the
effort. **Went by the Guild office to sign checks and found quite a few
horseweed plants growing in the flowerbed. I weeded the flowerbed, and of
course, I brought the horseweed home. The plant odor is interesting, and it’s
my understanding that the terpene oil secreted by the plant produces itching and
allergic reactions in some people, but it doesn’t seem to bother me. Stripped
and cooked just the bast from the plant. Makes a lovely
fine
fibered light green paper
with heavier gold fibers floating on the surface. Bleached the remaining pulp
to pull tomorrow. **Earlier in the year I made paper from dried pokeweed
stalks. The plant was difficult to break down, but made a pleasant heavy, good
quality paper. While I was in Old Town, I cut several pokeweed stalks to try
green. Except for the bast, there seemed to be no fiber at all in the stalks,
so I stripped only that and set it on to cook.
5-22-02
Bleached the remaining horseweed bast and pulled a few sheets from it. Makes
lovely, almost white paper,
fine fibered in the background with heavier fibers on the surface. **Green
pokeweed doesn’t seem to be worth the effort. The
paper
is nice, actually much nicer than
the
dried pokeweed paper,
but the pulp yield from the cooked bast isn’t enough to justify gathering and
stripping. I’ll likely cut a stalk later on this summer and see if the inside
has any fibers then.
5-23-02
Spent most of the day trying to dry and use up pulp. Because my main interest
is simply finding out what kind of paper a particular plant will make, I end up
with far more pulp than I use. Nearly three solid weeks of rain has kept me
from drying it, and my refrigerator had reached saturation point. (Read that as
there was no room for food.) Pulp keeps well refrigerated, so there was no
danger of losing it, but I had left some sitting out for a few days and that was
beginning to get a bit...slick? I needed some stationery, so I pulled envelopes
and flat sheets from a mixture of curly dock, abaca and cotton rag. It wasn’t
quite as dark as I wanted, but it’s still a nice dusty rose. Ended up mixing
several odds and ends just to use them up. That’s bad. No way to duplicate
those sheets ever, and some of them were just downright pretty. Now that
they’re pulled, I don’t even know what went into them.
5-25-02
Spent the day pulling paper for books to be juried by the Kentucky Craft
Marketing Program. I had paper for the covers (cotton twine/daylily stalk
paper), but not what I wanted for the spine guard and pastedowns, nor did I have
paper for the signatures. I settled on Japanese knotweed/lemongrass/Indian hemp
for the pastedown and spine guard, but I kept fumbling around for something for
the signatures. Finally settled on
abaca
with just a hint of hosta stems/leaves
as an inclusion. Pulled 30 sheets of those and exchange dried all in the
press. Made one book cover and back and left those in the press overnight.
Back to the top
5-26-02
The recent rains and storms have pretty well finished off my bearded iris, so
this morning I cut, cooked, and processed iris stalks and pulled the paper.
Both the
unbleached
and
bleached iris stalk
paper is crisp and shiny. The stalk paper processed in the Hollander is not as
heavy as that done in a blender. **This afternoon, I went out to the Indian
Fort Theater to cut mulberry to send to a friend. The Theater, 3 miles from
town. has a large partially paved parking lot, 1/4 mile of trail up to a natural
amphitheater, all surrounded by 1800 acres of woods. It’s a rather isolated
place. As I pulled into the lot, I saw that there was a bike show/rally going
on. We're talking vroom-vroom Harley's here, not little scooters. Row after
row of cycles were parked in front of the entrance and they were accompanied by
husky, bearded guys with tattoos, sleeveless leather jackets and heads covered
in red bandanas. I thought, gee, do I *really* want to drive up the side of
that parking lot, crawl out of the van and cut down trees in full sight of those
husky Harley hunks? Never being one to pay much attention to what I think, I
did it, but you'd be surprised at how quickly an old woman can move. The bikers
were about 75 yards away. They just leaned against their bikes, smoking
whatever they were smoking and watched. Before edging out of the van, I made
sure my cell phone was on and easily accessible, knowing full well, mind you,
that there is absolutely no signal at the Theater. We draw comfort from strange
things.
5-28-02
The morning was spent binding a
“fan cover”
book for the KCMP jurying. The papers for the fan are (top to bottom: black
willow, red mulberry, Japanese knotweed, Indian hemp, horse dung, Siberian
iris/wild garlic, pokeweed and Boston fern. The
binding
involves three different types of stitching (top to bottom) — modified kettle,
tape stitch, Coptic, tape and modified kettle. The tape stitching is done over
suede “hinges” rather than binders’ tape. **Went by the Guild office to sign
checks, and while I was there I wandered across the CSX tracks and gathered wool
grass and Japanese brome to try. **The afternoon was so lovely, I went down to
Silver Creek in search of more curly dock. (I’m enamored with the fiber right
now. Next week it may be something else. I’m wishy-washy like that.) Came
home hot and itchy, but with a full beater load of dock. This time I crushed it
before cooking, thinking this would make it unnecessary to hand beat before
putting in the Hollander. (FWIW, driving a van up and down the driveway over
the top of a pile of curly dock does not work.) Cooked the dock for 3 hours,
then left in the pot overnight. **I thought the mulberry gods had blessed me
when a neighbor across the way hollered to say she’d trimmed her tree and I
could have the limbs. Instead of a blessing, it was a curse. This was a white
mulberry with many,
many
small twigs growing on the branches. I stripped what I could, then bound the
branches together for the chipper.
5-29-02
Processed the curly dock in the Hollander, but found that it was still necessary
to hand beat to prevent jamming at the drum. The first dock I did had been
processed for something like 4.5 hours and I thought it was over beaten. I was
wrong. Dock
does
take something like 4.5-5 hours in the beater to achieve a fine, smooth pulp,
but it is well worth it. While I was waiting on the dock, I pulled a little of
the under processed pulp out and threw it in the vat with some
bluegrass/plantain/iris stems that I’d been fooling with. Pulled a few
envelopes and some stationery and the
dock
inclusion is
striking. **Japanese brome is a fairly common grass that often grows in solid
stands alongside roadways. It’s a rather drab looking grass until the seed
heads mature, then the whole plant turns a lovely dusty pink. Cut the brome
into 1-1.5” pieces, discarding the seed heads, and cooked for 1.5 hours.
Emptied the dock from the Hollander, put the brome in and beat it for 2 hours.
Haven’t pulled anything from the brome pulp yet, but from the looks of the very
fine, but long fibers, I have a feeling the stems should have been cut to 1/2”
lengths.
5-31-02 I
was right. The long fibers make the brome difficult, but not impossible, to
pull. It really needs a formation aid in the vat to disperse the fibers
evenly. If I keep the fiber concentration down in the vat so that it is
necessary to pull three times to get a sheet, it will pull evenly without a
formation aid. Just takes longer. Brome makes a good, though unimpressive
paper. The fine fibers form a solid base for the longer, heavier fibers, but it
is
very dull, no sheen
at all. However,
adding some bleached iris stalk pulp
produces a shine on the paper that brightens it considerably and improves the
looks. Bleaching produces a
cream colored paper,
which for some reason, is easier to pull than the unbleached.
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